The UK wool industry, facing a 53% loss due to declining domestic wool prices, is struggling with low fleece values, leading some farmers to discard their wool. The UNUSUWUL project offers a novel design and manufacturing process that enhances the value of British wool by leveraging its natural felting properties. Originally developed with merino wool, UNUSUWUL now focuses on British wool in order to reduce carbon footprints and cut energy use by simplifying the supply chain. 

The lack of accessible data on UK-grown, breed-specific wool hinders the development of equitable partnerships within the industry. Current standard measures, like fibre diameter, fail to capture the full potential of native British wool for innovative manufacturing processes. This project aims to fill this data gap by evaluating the process-ability of these fibres within the UNUSUWUL system,  comparing them with more widely used fibres like Merino Lambswool and synthetic blends. 

I will be working with a selection of breed specific yarns, representing the different British Wool types and putting each of them through their paces. My initial experiments show that some of these so called ‘undesirable’ fibres change dramatically within the UNUSUWUL Process, presenting remarkable results. This project will fund extensive testing and rapid prototyping, enabling me to create pieces which tangibly demonstrate the possibilities of native British fibre within the UNUSUWUL system.

Long-term, the project seeks to establish equitable partnerships across the textile supply chain, from farmers to brands, by providing a clear, data-driven framework for integrating native British wool into large-scale production. This approach aligns with the broader industry shift towards extended manufacturer responsibility and sustainable-by-design strategies, helping to mitigate risks associated with implementing new, eco-friendly manufacturing processes.

The project is funded by IMPACT+ Network as part of the UK Research & Innovation UKRI Circular Fashion and Textile Programme. IMPACT+ is a multi-disciplinary network based at Northumbria University, challenging the way environmental impact is measured and assessed across the fashion and textile industries.

I hope to connect with as many people within this space as possible through the course of the project.

If you work with wool in any capacity and are interested in contributing to the research, getting involved with feedback sessions or following along the way, please do get in contact!